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Thank you!

Cheers Felix! Yeah the position of that oil filter housing is pretty silly, but not as bad as the position of the cabin filter. 😆 I can forgive it though because it's the most economical car I've ever known.

Thanks for that!

I have had a brief go with the two nut method on one of the outer studs, it wasn't for moving. When I get back to looking at this I will have to be a little more assertive with it :)

Thanks for the tip. I realised when I watched the video back that that would be why the manual says to take the tappet covers off. Maybe next time :)

That's a thought :)

@@SPANNERRASH I am on with a 1980 triumph bonneville t14e Loving every minute!!

Sounds like you got a smokin' deal at least! Yeah sadly these Transits are notorious for rust. It's such a shame as they're brilliant vans. You may become a pro with a welder fixing one up. Check out some of our BMW E30 videos for some tips on starting out with the welder. Cheers!

I suspect that a welder will be a good investment! But £200 for a Transit sounds cheap, you have to expect there will be a lot to do at that price.

@@SPANNERRASH not too bad I reckon, chassis is ok, it's more the sills and arches. I've just replaced a drive shaft, ignition coil, turbo inlet pipe and attempted all 4 corners for brakes but I've had to order 2 sets of calipers and brackets because they were like Weetabix 😅 Solid van otherwise, engine and box A1. Thanks for your videos, they are keeping my moral up!

Very likely, once a tinkerer always a tinkerer!

Hi mate, my front fenders are not rolled, although one of them has some big old dents. Are you 100% sure you got E38 style 5s and not from another model. I know other style 5 wheels look the same but have very different offset. The E38 ones are ET23 and you can see exactly how they sit in the vid with no trickery. :D

@@SPANNERRASH I really appreciate you taking the time to reply to my comment… I’m sure it’s the e38 wheels - stamped et23. It’s a bit perplexing 🤔 Yours look great 💯 and I have no doubt you didn’t use some magic - haha. Back to the drawing board for me… If anyone has an idea what could be happening, I’d appreciate the perspective.

@@jrbravo25 No problem at all. Hmm so my theory about it being the wrong wheel seems wrong. Are you also using the SRS Concept front control arm bushings to correct for the new hubs?

Gracias por tus amables palabras. Espero poder mantener la determinación.

Hey Thomas, sounds like our E30s are twins :D Hmm, are you sure you haven't got the shifter the wrong way around? I started with mine the wrong way and the position of it was off, but when I rotated it 180 degrees and buttoned it back up, it was perfect.

Hi thanks for the reply! It sure looks that way :) I've had a play swapped the rod in every combination and still the same so think I'm gonna cut it and weld to the right position for the time being. Many thanks for your help 😊

It's probably why they are loved so much. Every one has a different character, if you don't mind problem solving. I'm hoping to build this one to be reliable, if it isn't when I've done then it will be down to me. But riding one of these and a Honda back to back you can see why the British industry fell off a cliff.

@@SPANNERRASH there is a difference between unreliability,poor quality and character. I have had my Triumph TR-6 with a hard tail and magneto for 40 years. She is reliable and dependable transportation and has plenty of character. I have had my Sportster for 25 years and has plenty of character while being reliable and dependable transportation as well.

Thank you very much! I do hope it has been helpful for you.

I have come across a lot of locked engines in the past, where the pistons are seized in the bore. This is my first one with the head stuck on. Always something new to keep you interested.

The biggest problem is having an oven large enough to fit things in. If you have an oven that it will fit in then you can powder coat it. You have to get it to the right temperature for the powder to melt and fuse to the item. We keep thinking of making a bigger oven so that we can do frames, but haven't got around to it. Good luck.

I'll do my best, but we will intersperse it with our car and other bike videos, why not watch them as well?

Glad you enjoyed it. We love the finish you can get with powder.

You seem to be doing much better than me. Have you tried putting the head and barrel in an oven for a while? Heat it to 250c or so for an hour, then let it cool. Maybe cycle it a few times. This is what I am thinking of trying. I hope it doesn't come to machining the studs out. Let me know how you go on. Good luck.

Yes, it is all a bit rudimentary. Maybe that is what give them a personality and a bit of soul :)

750 Triumph Bonnievilles with the double down tube frame were known for vibration not only because of the twin carbs instead of the single carb versions. 1970's British motorcycles were known for problems left ,right and center. Such a sad ending to a once great industry😢.

To be honest I am not sure. If you watch the video again around the 5 minute section the bottom of the barrels where the oil drain comes through is different. If one of these oil passage ways through the barrel is blocked where it joins the crankcase is blocked off then it will stop oil draining properly from the head. You will need to check your crankcases to see if this would be an issue. If you look at video no 19 in the playlist for this bike around minute 11 it looks like my engine does have the right openings on the crankcase, but I don't know if this is true for all later engines. Good luck.

@@SPANNERRASH thank you!

Moisture seems to get into all of the box sections so trying to completely seal them all doesn't seem possible. Ford couldn't manage it :) I try to spray rust preventative wax into every hole that I can find, on a reasonably regular basis, at least once a year or so. The sooner you start doing that in the life of the vehicle the more successful it will be. That and fixing the places where the rust does get a hold seems to be the only strategy. Good luck.

Not sure what you mean about the studs. The do seem to be stainless, and the outer ones have replaced the usual bolts that are there usually.

@@SPANNERRASH looks like your bike has 4 studs with nuts versus the other video has bolts which come out totally..

@@SPANNERRASH check out your video at 31:26 mark. The 4 large head bolts you have are studs with nuts..Lunmad video shows 4 large bolts with head attached..if that makes sense

@@SPANNERRASH look at the video closely..stay cool

Good advice. I am soaking with penetrating oil every couple of days. If I am tapping with a hammer, I am using a block of wood, and I am not being too extreme.

It's on the list. But I am concerned that it is the studs that are corroded into the passage ways through the head and will cause damage coming out. I probably don't have a choice though.

@@SPANNERRASH use alot of penetrating oil on the studs you have

I would love it if there was a missing stud/nut I'd missed. But I think you mean the two in the middle on the 750. Let me know if you mean something else!

Seen this one. Saw a mate turning the air blue trying to get the head off.

This is something I am planning to explore in a followup vid. Hopefully I get to it soon but feels less pressing during summer!

@@SPANNERRASH thank you for the answer do you have Informations about it i cant find Someone who did that Already

@@__nightplayer__2308 I have an idea to try and use the E36 heated seat switch and splice it into the new seats, but I've no idea if it will work yet. I'll need to do some research. Let me know if you figure it out first!

@@SPANNERRASH in the e46 i have a 3 Stage Button i tryed to use the Brown Mass, the normal Green Yellow electricity wire and the Blue white Temperature wire like normal But the Control Unit isnt Turning on But if i Set a 2ohm resistance in Front the Control Unit Works But the seats dont heat enaugh

@@SPANNERRASH i Think it has something to do With the electricity needet The Original cables are 12v 10ohm = 120w Max the New Seat is 1,2 Ohm r=u/i R*I = is 1,2*10= 12v … Check U/r=I. Is 12/1,2 = 10a The Control Unit cant give that amount in W If i Set the 2ohm in Front there is : 12/3,2 = 3,75 Ohms times 12v = 45watts 3,2* 3,75= 12 Volt … Check The 45 watts are to Less If i do 1,5 Ohmes the Output shuld be Around 70watts I am looking of it works Correct me if i am wrong

Cheers!

I do love working on old bikes. Some costs you can't avoid, but I don't intend to spend a fortune. I remember these from first time around too, everything seemed less reliable back then :)

@@SPANNERRASH Sadly you won't be given the option of spending or not. Anything mechanical is mad expensive these days. Engine work is eye wateringly crazy dear, as are the numerous silly small items you'll inevitably end up replacing .. Personally I wouldn't touch anything like this with a barge pole knowing I'd be hemorrhaging money at every turn of the spanner. Once finished it will be endless fettling as it tries to shake itself to bits. :-) Unless of course was the bike of my dreams or worth it. This isn't neither or either for me personally in any way shape or form. It looks a well beaten dog to me tbf, and I've bought too many of these in the past to revisit those times again. But if it's yours then more power to you and I'm sure it'll be worth every penny and hour spent on it. :-)

Hi Chris, is this related to our other video about the Triumph? Cheers!

If I don't have any joy this sounds like a good idea. See if I can cook it for a bit to break the seal.

They were difficult times. There was pretty much only hand to mouth production, they really did well considering. The mix of fasteners and threads can lead to a few head scratching moments. I will try to get that book, I haven't come across it before.

Your care and attention with correct tools is a refreshing change from the usual butchery on you tube. I always apply heat or cold shock to seperate fasteners. A trick for stuck heads is to fill the chambers with oil or melted grease !

This exact one: ebay.us/UJ1xq8 Check out my M50 manifold vid to see it installed. Hope that helps 😃

Like me it is waiting for the rain to stop, on a day that I am not already committed to something else. I am sure this is the wettest start to a year I can remember. I am sure you will see it soon, I really do want to get it painted.

I'm a couple of weeks into that regime! Penetrating oil every couple of days, heating around the studs, big hammer against block of wood to protect head. Lots of colourful language. Still no joy!

Cheers Ian. It will be interesting when I get deeper into it. I have been really surprised at how easy the fasteners have come apart so far. The head being so stuck was a bit of a surprise. I have heard that the composite head gaskets that have been used on these engine can cause this, hopefully it will be solved soon.

@@SPANNERRASH yeah always better using copper ones..

Probably, but I am going to remove the engine anyway to sort out the frame.

How about hitting the aluminium around the areas where the studs come out with a blow torch - then a squirt of duck oil. Repeat a couple of times then try your long lever again (gently) ?

These things are sent to try us! It did seem to be going too well. The last Triumph twin I strpped completely down had seized pistons which had to be taken out with sledge hammers! Hopefully it won't come to that.

I didn't think they were necessary, they are overkill anyway. I only added the extras as I had more wood than anticipated. Wouldn't hurt to do an extra in all levels though.

It would be good, but I can't see it being likely. I think because Triumph is definitely British they feel they need a bigger presence.

Haha! Yeah its the only downside so far. Still faint smell in the garage as I got it all over the floor and let it set, like a fool...

@@SPANNERRASH live and learn- thanks for sharing it with us so we don’t make the same mistakes.

Cheers! To be honest the temp switch came with the wiring kit from BMConversions. Theres no clear part numbers of anything like that on it. I suspect if you get in touch with Dan at BMConversions he can sell you one, but you might be able to find one somewhere online. Hope that helps!

Sounds like fun. Maybe Dessert Sled might be more appropriate for me.... Only kidding :) Sounds like a great idea.

Around 200 if I recall. Seems the exact kit is no longer available, but this one looks very similar ebay.us/82iYUz

@@SPANNERRASH thank you

Haha! I hope the vid is still useful to you, despite using a modern measuring system. Cheers! 🤭

Hi Daniel, check out the later E30 videos in preparation for MOT. sadly there was some rubbing on the fronts on full lock with these tyres. I suspect largely to do with the fact I'm also using a Z3 steering rack. I got it solved fairly easily with some rack limiters though.

There was no problems with water coming in around the vent at all. Although I have now moved on from that van, the subsequent owner, who has been in touch occaisionally, hasn't had any issues. I hope this helps.

There wasn't anything wrong with the oil. Wet sumping means that when the engine isn't running the oil drains from the oil tank into the sump. There will always be some oil in the sump, but when the engine is running this should be pumped back up to the tank and the sump will only have a small amount of oil. The oil pump shouldn't really let the oil leak through it when it isn't running, but most do to some extent. On a CB750 this doesn't seem to be a problem, but on some other bikes you can get some of the oil from an overful sump being pumped out of the engine through breathers which can be messy. This engine altough it does wet sump isn't doing it to such an extent that it is a concern to me. I hope this helps.

You can't go wrong with a Triumph twin, the nearly always look great!

Such kind words, Thanks for coming along on our journey.